The ute was originally Grey. Which, in my eyes is a little bland. My favourite of the Land Rover colours was Limestone and having a photo on hand of a LWB Trayback in limestone only confirmed my thoughts. I was recommended Standox paint, a little more expensive that other paints but gives an excellent finish. $127 for 4 Litres should see the job done. More news on this to come… I found this photo as inspiration, this is the colour ‘Limestone’ and will be what my SIIA will look like in a weeks weeks - Touch wood! 
A few links I found when researching Land Rover Paint:
NCJ Limestone 59-84 LRC.007
Paint Colors
Description Rover No. DuPont Ditzler Glasurit RM-Supermax Unipart
Pastel Green RTC4041A 38504* ROV-605 RV-028Bronze Green RTC4042A 38500* 46451 LEY-637 RV-027Marine Blue RTC4043A 38503* 16514 ROV-504 RV-017 GAP407Limestone RTC4044A 38505* 46251 RV-040Poppy Red 38506* ROV-303 RV-029Sand 38502*Mid grey 38501*Burnt grey 38508*Davos white 38514*Mexican brown 38519*Cameron green 38520*Almond yellow 38521*Sandglow “Camel Yellow” is also an old Jaguar colorSand (ACF/004 or 26291)Artic White”Detroit Diesel Alpine Green” #225, made by Tempo.*For DuPont add suffix “A” for Centari Acrylic Enamel, “L” for Laquer,or “D” for “DuLux” Alkyd Enamel.
Plugging in the Vin / Chassis number @ http://www.clifton.nl/index.html?calvin.html gives us some info on the Landrover!
The chassis number is found under the passenger rear spring hanger or on the plate in the cab.
Mine 25311853B
| 253 |
Model: Land Rover, Series IIA |
|
Body type: Basic |
|
Wheel base: 109in |
|
Engine: petrol |
|
Model years: 1962-1971 |
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Destination: Completely knocked down (CKD), right-hand drive (RHD) |
| 11853 |
Serial number |
| B |
Design: One significant design modification |
|
Suffix used from March 1963 till April 1966 |
Another few hours have been spent in the garage working on the landrover. I managed to get the towbar off and ther rear lights.
The towbar was VERY difficult to remove, the rust and time had siezed the 15/16 bolts very tight. Breakerbar + Handwinch bar was used to extract them. The Rear lights had to have their bolts cut with the grinder unfortunately as the screws were seized. At some stage the wiring has shorted out to the rear of the vehicle as there is a fried wire and plastic sheath oozing from the chassis at some points, which means we might have to replace the loom to the rear of the vehicle 
One shock was removed, and I thought it was too good to be true when trying the drivers side, this bugger is tight and will require a second pair of hands.
I also attempted to fix the rear light protcetor bar by welding it up, not bad for my first weld in 2 years, but will need the tidy up of a pro I think!
Photo’s of the day:
More photos here
